Tuesday, October 12, 2010

Nzulezu

The weekend was an amazing adventure that can be broken down into a sequence of hilarious excursions.

It begins with 1 Scottish and 4 American girls meeting up with 4 German boys resulting in 1 trotro full of white people. We received so many stares as we drove through the towns and on our way to Takoradi... We parted ways at the main tro station and the 5 of us girls went for a walk through town.

Here begins part 2. Everyone assumes we are new tourists and wants to help us out. We are happily walking and looking, deciding where to go on a whim since all one has to do is head to market circle to prevent being lost. However we cannot stop too long to make a decision or we risk being mobbed by taxi drivers who want to take us somewhere or sellers who want us to buy. We decide to take a side street and ask a real local for directions to a place for lunch. He is kind enough to not only explain but also hail a taxi for us and tell the guy to not overcharge us, we will go for 2 cedis. We get to the restaurant, eat and relax.

So begins part 3. We hail a taxi and pile in telling the driver we need a tro to Beyin. He takes us to the main tro station, which is not the one we want... However, after paying for the ride we ask around and find that there is a tro to Elubo that we can get out of at Aiyinasi and then catch a cab to backtrack to Beyin. (note that i am the only one who thought to bring a guide book and therefore am the only one who thinks this is not a good idea and would like to go to the actual station...) We get in since it seems like a reasonable plan to some and off we go. Its 2 hours out and the driver flags down a full taxi and tells us to get out. The people from the taxi get in the tro and we would get in the taxi but the driver wants 40 cedis! All of us could get to Burkina Faso and back for that... We kindly explain that we are not getting in unless he will take 10 cedis which is finally agreed upon. So off we go!

Part 4 of the journey is interesting. Our driver stops in the middle of no where to talk with another taxi driver. He then tells us to get out, as we are switching cars since he can go no further (no explanation past that). He has a little car taxi and the next is a Subaru like taxi, which makes sense now... However, this taxi already has a passenger and there are 5 of us with bags. After a minor argument the guy will not get out but we have to pay less so we will deal with it. Michaela sits with random guy up front and then the other 4 of us sit in the back. The ride begins again. Why we needed a different car: the road is nothing but potholes!!!! We are bouncing and hitting the roof as we drive at a conservative pace. We all break down into hysterical laughter at this point until we reach Beyin...

Part 5: We finally arrive...

The resort is quaint...

The sunset is beautiful and perfect...


Dinner is candle-lit and fun...

We don't sleep well but it is the excitement and the new location. The sunrise is also beautiful...

And the fort (Fort Apollonia) is a stark contrast against the community...

Part 6: Nzulezo
This made the whole trip worth all of the effort that we had to put into it! The trip was riddled with hidden fees labeled as donations but were actually required. However, the boat ride was awesome and I got to paddle! My arms hurt now as I am writing this but it was awesome at the time. :) In addition we went through marsh, swamp forest, and lakes to get to the town (composing the Amansuri wetlands!).

Nzulezu itself is a city on stilts, The community is around 400 people who all live lives on the water. The fish and canoe inland to farm. However, the also travel inland to the local markets once a week for supplies. The town is unique due to its existence since approximately 500 years ago. It is however rebuilt often due to water damage and fire. The last large fire was in 1968, which is probably why the oldest home is approximately 70 years old. The town builds its own stilts and boats allowing it to be self renewing. The tourism it attracts helps pay for the local school and continued upkeep as well as keeping the canoes running back and forth!



I probably could have spent the rest of my trip paddling around the wetlands happily...

Part 7- The trip home, which was planned better. We had out guide, Charles, explain the best way for us to go. So we took a tro from Beyin to Tikobo. There we bought bread and bananas for lunch (a common staple) and then got a tro to Takoradi. They dropped us at the Cape Coast station and the tro from there dropped us each in succession, where we needed to go! Kirsty and Michaela at Yes FM, Danielle at Pedu, and Mckell and I at Kotokraba. It was great and saved us a taxi fare!


The whole adventure was fun and rather well done. I know the others are taking their parents back there and it is defiantly a place I would recommend!!!

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